Welcome to Malta! Inspired by the vivid descriptions of Malta in the preface of my first travel book, Musafaton by Altaf Shaikh, my friends—Sunil Lohano, Jibran Baladi, Vickey Wadhwani—and I decided to visit this fascinating country. Malta is a place you could visit time and again. Jibran had even booked the flight tickets, but due to some family commitments, he had to postpone his plan. Such is life!

On February 11, 2023, we boarded a Ryanair flight from Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport and landed at Malta’s Luqa Airport. From the plane, the view of Malta’s islands was captivating. In Sweden, children are often taught practical skills in school. Sunil’s young daughter, Neha, had made a cake in school, which he brought along for us to enjoy during our flight with tea.

The contrast between Stockholm and Malta was striking. We had left behind a snow-covered city and arrived in Malta’s pleasant, spring-like weather. Our plan was to rent a car from the airport to explore as much as possible during our stay and return it before our flight back. While Sunil and Vickey headed to the Hertz car rental office, I gathered maps and tourist information from the airport’s tourist office—a resource that proved invaluable later.

Driving in Malta was a challenge in itself. While Sweden follows right-hand driving, Malta, like Pakistan, has left-hand driving. Sunil bravely took on the responsibility of driving, and we opted for full insurance coverage for added security.

Our first task was to reach our accommodation and find parking. Our apartment was in Valletta, where the narrow and hilly streets made navigation tricky. After some trial and error, we found our building and, luckily, a parking spot right outside. Most parking in Malta is free, which was a pleasant surprise.

The apartment was spacious—a living area with a TV and sofas, a kitchen, a hallway leading to two bedrooms, each with an attached bathroom. Another comfort was the availability of potable tap water, a relief for any traveler.

After settling in, we set out to explore the city on foot. Being the weekend, Valletta was bustling with life. The sun was still high, allowing us to wander through the city’s famous Old Mint Street. This street slopes down and then ascends again, offering a stunning view of the Mediterranean Sea at its end. Cars lined one side of the road, with traffic moving in a single direction.

We eventually reached Republic Street, a pedestrian-friendly thoroughfare buzzing with locals and tourists. Malta attracts nearly 1.5 to 2 million visitors annually, with a significant portion coming from the United Kingdom. Tourism is a major industry here, providing substantial revenue when tourists are offered good facilities and hospitality.

As the sun cast golden hues on the city’s buildings, we sensed that something special was happening. We stopped for a quick bite at McDonald’s, intending to enjoy dinner later at a local pizzeria named ‘Sotto Pizzeria’ near our apartment. Continuing our walk, we reached Fort Saint Elmo and the adjacent War Museum, eventually descending to Boat Street along the seafront. The sea shimmered in a mesmerizing shade of green. However, our path was blocked by security personnel due to ongoing excavation work, possibly involving explosives.

As night fell, the city’s vibrancy only increased. Our hunch about a special event was confirmed when we encountered a grand procession on Merchant Street. Upon inquiring, a local informed us that it was a celebration of Saint Patrick’s Day, which had been postponed due to bad weather.

The procession was a spectacle, featuring large effigies of Saint Patrick and flag bearers. Malta’s national television was broadcasting the event live. We followed the parade through the winding streets, occasionally crossing paths with it. Some people, exhausted, rested on open-air chairs and tables, while children played enthusiastically with colorful confetti used in the celebration.

The sky turned a deeper shade of blue as the sea sparkled under the fading sunlight—a perfect end to our first day in enchanting Malta.

On our return, we also picked up some supplies from a grocery store. After leaving the groceries at our flat, we headed to a pizza place. It was quite crowded there. They asked us if we had a table reservation, to which we replied no. They informed us that we would need to book a table in advance. Unfortunately, that day, pizza was not in our destiny.

We were curious about why this pizza place, which wasn’t even on Valletta’s main street, was so crowded that we needed to reserve a table in advance. A quick Wikipedia search revealed that their pizza was famous because they didn’t use regular yeast in their dough. Instead, they let the kneaded dough rest for 24 hours or even longer, allowing it to naturally become suitable for making pizza. This made us all eager to try it, determined to taste it at least once.

That night, we returned to our flat disappointed. But then, we thought of going somewhere else to eat. Nearby, we found a kebab grill place. The owner seemed to be a Pashtun, and a couple of other Pashtuns were also working there. The setup was quite decent. Although the pizza restaurant was just next door, seeing the rush there confirmed what research had suggested—that the people of Malta love food. This was evident from the fact that Malta ranks among the top five countries in the world with the highest percentage of overweight people.

Back at the flat, we turned on the TV, had a couple of rounds of tea, and chatted for a long time with Jibran and Riaz Kango in Sweden via video call. We laughed a lot over jokes and humorous conversations. Eventually, fatigue took over, and we prepared to sleep. Late at night, I felt as if tractors were running inside the flat, snoring, but I soon fell back asleep.

The Next Day

The next morning, I put water on the stove to boil for tea and stepped outside to peek through the main entrance of our building to check if our car was still there. The car was indeed parked where we had left it. At that moment, I was transported back to my childhood. I remembered how, every Friday morning in my home town Moro, Sindh province of Pakistan, I would peek outside our home’s main door to check if a Suzuki jeep was parked there. If it was, it meant that our beloved uncle, Muhammad Khan, had arrived from Nawabshah or Tando Adam for his weekly visit to our village. His arrival brought double joy—one, the excitement of seeing him, and two, the fun of taking a jeep ride in the evening. Especially when we drove over the Dadu-Moro Bridge, it felt like a grand adventure to us back then.

The lounge and kitchen in our flat were in the same space, so while preparing breakfast, we could also watch TV. As we had our morning meal, we rewatched the previous night’s events on television.

The sun was shining brightly, and the atmosphere carried the fresh scent of the sea. We packed our car with necessary items for the road and set off. That day, our plan was to visit Gozo, Malta’s second-largest island.

Our journey towards Gozo began. It took a while to get out of the city’s narrow streets, but soon, we were on Highway 1. Sunil was driving carefully. Despite being a small European Union country, Malta has an overwhelming number of vehicles. It seemed as if almost everyone owned a car. I believe that nowadays, having a personal vehicle is not a luxury but a necessity, especially in places where the government does not provide adequate public transport. Maybe in Malta, it was indeed a necessity, or perhaps it was simply a personal preference for people to own cars.

There were scattered clouds in the sky. We enjoyed the scenery, listened to Sindhi music, and relished the drive. The landscape varied between flat plains and small hilly terrains. Having our own car gave us the freedom to stop wherever we liked to take a closer look at the surroundings. Along the way, we paused at several beautiful spots, admired the views, and took memorable photos.

In the distance, we saw large cargo ships transporting goods across the sea, and occasionally, passenger ferries sailing through the waters. A striking limestone cliff also came into view—it looked like a sheer vertical wall extending all the way down into the sea, a magnificent sight showcasing nature’s beauty.

Our journey continued until we reached the Cirkewwa Terminal, from where we needed to take a ferry, along with our car, to reach Gozo Island. As the ferry’s departure time approached, more and more people started gathering. There were tourists arriving in buses and others driving their own cars. People and vehicles boarded the ferry one after another. We parked our car and went to the upper deck of the ferry.

The surrounding sea was a deep blue color. The ferry was packed with people. As we sailed towards Gozo, we also passed by Comino Island, where we saw rocky cliffs, small caves, and natural formations. Some smaller boats, filled with tourists, were navigating around, letting people enjoy the breathtaking views up close.

On the way to Gozo, my thoughts drifted toward Sindh. Just like Malta, Sindh also has a place called Gozo in the Kachho region of Dadu District. I had visited that area a long time ago with my dear friends Pir Hammadullah Khayravi, the late Prof. Abdul Aziz Magsi, Prof. Mumtaz Soomro, and Prof. Rafiq Soomro.

During that trip, along with exploring Nai Gaaj, we also visited the shrines of Mian Nasir Kalhoro, Mast Kehar Shah, and Shah Godrio.

We took many memorable photos on the ferry and arrived at the Mgarr Terminal in Gozo. Now, we were in Victoria, the main city of Gozo, also known as Rabat, which is situated on a hill. Our first plan was to visit the fortress there. Passing through narrow streets and roads, we reached the fortress’s parking area.

The fortress is built with golden-colored stones and, being on a hill, is visible from a distance. From the top of the fortress, one can see the surrounding villages, valleys, and the sea. The entire fortress is made of stone bricks. Looking around from the top, lush greenery is visible in every direction. Inside the fortress, the narrow stone alleyways were remarkably clean and impressive. While exploring, we saw a church and an old prison from the outside.

Outside the fortress walls, old cannons from ancient times were still in place, which were once used for defense against sea attacks. There were also many tourists with backpacks, including some Indian girls who might have been studying in Malta or working in the IT sector.

There was a beautifully decorated souvenir shop with many items displayed inside and outside, enticing visitors to buy something. We, too, picked up a few items before leaving.

From there, we continued northwest of Gozo Island and parked near the seaside. We first walked to Dwejra Bay, where we also saw the Dwejra Watchtower, which still stands intact. Climbing a hill called Tilt Rock, we were met with breathtaking views of the sea. From there, we spotted Fungus Rock, which stood distinctively in the water, separate from the other cliffs and mountains.

Seeing these rocky formations and cliffs reminded me of the Twelve Apostles in Melbourne, Australia, which I had visited with my cousin Altaf on the Great Ocean Road tour. We were blessed with perfect weather at Dwejra Bay, with the sky, sun, and the sea’s blue waters creating a mesmerizing scene. There, a young man with a dog offered us to take our photos. Thanks to him.

After spending a wonderful time there, we moved toward the famous tourist attraction, the Azure Window. It was a natural rock arch formed between two cliffs but had collapsed due to a storm. Despite that, there was still much to explore, so we made our way there.

We planned to take a boat ride in the nearby sea, but the boat operator insisted on cash payments in Euros. Since we didn’t have Euros, after some negotiation, he accepted Swedish Krona, and we boarded the boat. Before setting off, everyone was given life jackets.

We were actually in a body of water that had flowed in from the sea through a cave within a rocky hill. This area wasn’t very deep, and the sea flowing through the hill was known as the Inland Sea. As we entered the triangular entrance of the cave in our boat, the boatman carefully navigated to avoid hitting the narrow rock walls. The scene was truly magical.

Soon, we emerged on the other side into the open sea, where we found ourselves floating on deep blue waters. The boat rocked with the waves, and other boats were around us. Some tourists were even kayaking on their own, adding to the adventurous atmosphere.

We were taken around here and there for quite some time. We were also taken to another cave called the “Blue Hole.” The sea’s color there is not actually blue, but due to the natural reflection of sunlight on the sea bed, a unique kind of light is produced, making the sea appear blue or green. The Blue Hole is quite famous among tourists for deep-sea diving.

From there, we once again saw Fungus Rock, Dwejra Tower, Tilt Rock, and a newly discovered spot called Crocodile Rock, which actually resembled a crocodile. The boat driver showed us the remaining rocks of the Azure Window, on top of which a natural arch had once stood before being destroyed by a storm. We thoroughly enjoyed this half-hour tour and found the natural scenery very refreshing.

We then returned to the Cirkewwa Terminal. After parking our car, we approached an agent from the Blue Lagoon tour company and asked how much it would cost for the three of us. After some bargaining, he offered us a reasonable price and issued our tickets. Since the boat was yet to depart, we wandered around the surroundings of Cirkewwa. Many tourists were sitting on the stair-like seating areas, probably waiting for the ferry to the main island of Malta. Several private boats were also anchored nearby.

After a short while, a speedboat arrived, piloted by a father and son. Like other passengers, we also boarded it. The speedboat, packed with tourists, took off at high speed, splashing water onto our faces. First, we were taken to Comino Island’s Blue Lagoon, where the boat slowed down to allow tourists to admire the natural beauty and take pictures. We took many memorable photos there. Small hills, cliffs, and rocks surrounded the area, some of which had caves. Some tourists were even hiking on top of these cliffs.

At one stop, likely on the main island, almost all the tourists disembarked. The boat drivers (father and son) then asked us if we weren’t getting off. We replied that our car was parked in Cirkewwa and that our ticket covered a round trip from and back to Cirkewwa. They agreed but mentioned that they would first make another stop at a different island to pick up more tourists before returning to Cirkewwa. In the meantime, we enjoyed a free extra ride around the area before being dropped back at Cirkewwa.

Upon returning, there was still some time before sunset, so we decided to go to Selmun Bay to witness the romantic view of the sun setting over the sea. When we arrived, the sun was already descending. We crossed a wooden bridge and quickly reached a spot near the Selmun Tower to watch the sunset. The sea and sky appeared almost identical in color, with only a faint golden hue from the setting sun separating them. The sun seemed to disappear into the horizon but was surely rising somewhere else. We took many memorable pictures before preparing to return.

On the way back, we stopped outside the Mnajdra Parish Church, which we had wanted to visit from inside, but it was closed at that time. We retraced our route, returning to Cirkewwa, then taking the ferry with our car back to the main island, and finally reaching our apartment in Valletta.

That evening, we all felt like having some desi food. A quick Google search led us to an Afghan restaurant called “Afghan Natural Food” on St. George’s Road in Hamrun. We reached there soon. As we entered, we saw an elderly Afghan man instructing his Nepali staff on how to prepare and serve the dishes. One of the Nepali workers seemed startled upon seeing me.

We asked the restaurant owner about the available dishes while looking through the menu. After placing our order, the Afghan owner advised us that the food we had ordered was too much for just three people and suggested reducing a few items. We appreciated his honesty, and indeed, his suggestion was correct – we were satisfied with the amount he had recommended. Moreover, he kindly offered us honeyed green tea from his own as gesture of hospitality.

Once again, I was reminded that there are more good people in the world than bad ones. The Nepali worker later told me that he had been startled because I resembled his Nepali friend back home. For a moment, he had thought his friend had somehow appeared here in a foreign land. Perhaps those two Nepali friends often remembered each other, and that’s why he had seen a reflection of his friend in me.

After spending some time there, we returned to the apartment, enjoyed a chat over tea, watched some TV, and gradually, one by one, everyone went to sleep. (Continues)

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Published under International Cooperation with "Sindh Courier"