The Thalpan Rock Art, a rare and remarkable testament to our rich history, is scattered along the Karakoram Highway, from Shatial in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa to the sacred rock of Hunza

The Thalpan Rock Art, a rare and remarkable testament to our rich history, is scattered along the Karakoram Highway, from Shatial in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa to the sacred rock of Hunza (Haldeikish); every site is a treasure trove for visitors and scholars. The most concentrated collection of these carvings is found around Chilas in the Diamer district. There are many themes in the rock art of the Diamer district. However, the Thalpan site, near Chilas town, stands out for its unique abundance of depictions of Buddhist traditions representing Jataka scenes, Buddhas, Bodhisattvas and stupas. The Thalpan rock art, containing both historic period petroglyphs, offers a vivid glimpse into our past. I first visited this site in 2000 when I was a consultant with the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) based in Gilgit’s Jutial. I have been visiting Thalpan and other rock art sites in Gilgit-Baltisan since 2000. The last time I visited this site was in 2022. The site is named after the nearby Thaplan village, and there are four rock art sites known as Thalpan I to III and Thalpan- Ziarat. Scholars refer to Thalpan I as Thalpan Bridge. One of the intriguing features of the Thalpan-Ziarat rock art site is the prehistoric petroglyphs, which also represent a few Buddhist engravings.

Engraved boulder at Thalpan Bridge

Among the myriad of rock carvings from the historic period, the most prominent depictions at Thalpan include Buddha, Bodhisattvas and stupas, each accompanied by scripts. These carvings, etched on boulders and cliffs, are not just a testament to the rich history and ancient traditions of Gilgit-Baltistan, but also a profound symbol of our cultural heritage. One of the most awe-inspiring rock carvings is seen on a boulder at Thalpan. The entire surface of the boulder is a canvas of carvings, each telling a unique story. According to Dr. Ahmad Hassan Dani (1983), the author of Chials: The City of Nanga Parvat (Dyamar), this boulder depicts Jataka stories of Buddha, notably Sibi Jataka, the ascetic and animals. The most captivating depiction is the discussion between the two Bodhisattvas, Avalokitesvara and Manju Sri. This boulder also features three large stupas. In between the two stupas is a carving of Sibi Jataka, which shows a standing Bodhisattva holding a balance in his hand. On his left is a seated king with a crown on his head, holding a dove in his left hand. The king receives flesh in his right hand from the Bodhisattva, who is taking his flesh from his left thigh with his left hand and presenting it to the king. Sibi Jataka is also engraved on a boulder at the Shatial rock art site. I have visited the Shatial rock art site several times en route to Darel Valley.

Depiction of Sibi Jataka at Thalpan

On the extreme right side of the boulder is an engraved sage feeding animals. He is shown sitting under a tree. On the extreme right side of the boulder is an engraving of a seated Bodhisattva Maitreya. He is shown seated on a double-petalled lotus with two scripts. On his right, close to the smaller stupa, is a depiction of a seated Buddha. Thalpan abounds with Buddhist rock carvings. Another boulder at the Thalpan Bridge site represents the temptation of Buddha by Mara’s daughters. This is one of the magnificent carvings at the Thaplan Bridge site. However, these carvings look dim. On another boulder, one sees a seated Buddha with Vajrapani standing near him, holding a thunderbolt in his hand. These carvings also look very dim.

Depiction of Bodhisattva Maitreya at Thalpan

The story of ‘The First Sermon of Buddha at Sarnath’ is engraved on another boulder. The artist has engraved Buddha in the centre, with three disciples on his left and two on the right. Below the figure of Buddha is depicted wheel of law (Dharma Chakra) with a deer on either side. Buddha is shown with a halo. The people have vandalized this figure. On a rock wall, there is a representation of a large Buddha figure with four smaller other figures of Buddhas on the right. There was also once a depiction of the monastery with Buddhas, which treasure hunters removed. In another place at Thalpan, there is a carving of Buddha in a preaching pose. He is shown seated on a lotus with a column that rests on a double base. Five stupa images surround the figure of Buddha. The upper part of the figure is slightly damaged, probably due to weathering. On a few boulders are engraved Buddha in a typical Gandhara style.

A stupa with inscription at Thalpan

It is important to note that Thalpan boasts several stupas, all intricately engraved and showcasing exquisite details. The stupa has many variants. The stupa engravings in Gilgit-Baltistan can be classified into domed stupas and tower-like stupas. The predominant visual element of a domed stupa is the dome, and both forms of stupas are found at Thalpan.

A boulder near Thalpan Bridge shows numerous carvings of stupas and animals and a frieze of decorated discs or circles. This also depicts axes. Anthropomorphic figures are shown holding a battle axe in one hand and probably a trishula in the other. Horse riders are also engraved. On the same boulder is a carving of a horse rider who is depicted pulling a decorated disc or circle. These circles represent plans of certain shrines or some other votive structures. The abundance of decorated discs on the boulder shows that it was probably the most cultic symbol in the 6th, 7th and 8th centuries in the upper Indus Valley. Stupas are engraved everywhere on this boulder.

Avalokitesvara and Manju Sri at Thalpan

On some boulders, stupas are engraved in an ensemble and sometimes, one notices that Buddha was carved with stupas. Even inside the dome (anada), a figure of Buddha in a meditation pose is represented. In two scenes, we see Buddha seated under a Bodhi tree, and stupas are depicted above the Bodhi tree. Each of the stupas exhibits details representing either a single or double plinth, medhi (terrace), anda (dome), harmika, chattra, yashti, banners/streamers, ghanta (bells) and varsathali. Sometimes, the sopana (staircase) is also shown.

A few stupas at Thalpan also represent stambhas (pillars). The best specimen with lion pillars is found at Thalpan with late Brahmi inscriptions. The earliest stupa with pillars is engraved at the Chilas II rock art site and dates back to the 1st century A.D. This form of the stupa (with pillars) is also found at the Shing Nala rock art site in the Diamer district, reflecting various forms of stupas engraved by Buddhist followers.

Stupa carvings are also found on Altar Rock at Thalpan. On this rock are also engraved animals, anthropomorphic figures, Parthian hunters and soldiers.

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Published under International Cooperation with "Sindh Courier"